The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.
A chance encounter while riding the tube in 1988 changed forever the path of a teenage Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the London's buzzing 1990s cultural landscape, progressing from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.
"That era was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be close. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I miss that spontaneity."
Although Enninful appears wistful, he is not the only one. Recently, a fond idealisation of the 1990s has become pervasive. However since that time, Enninful perceives a profound shift. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s everywhere."
Shifting Attitudes
This shift is hard to ignore: the growth of far-right politics, the pushback against progressive values, and the reinforcement of traditional beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the Blair era, today a different political personality stands as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an emblem of cultural optimism, has sparked debate once more.
According to Enninful, the solution has consistently been to celebrate culture in all its diversity. This was the core philosophy behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a wide range of cultural icons from literature.
"Individuals with a platform should wield it," he says, explaining those editorial decisions. "Everyone talks about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain were not a welcoming country, if it hadn't given my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I always loved. I believe this moment will fade."
A New Wave of Consciousness
He draws solace in the younger generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They analyse systemic issues – I didn't even know what that was."
The beginnings of his career would define a trailblazing career characterised by fearlessness and diversity. Enninful broke barriers as the first male, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, curvy models, an octogenarian, and individuals from all walks of life. Critically, sales rose.
"To overlook huge sections of the population, it’s not just that you’re excluding people – it’s commercially unwise," he emphasises.
Beyond the Magazine World
He has since founded his new venture EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since leaving his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "disruptor".
"My nature is to challenge the established norms. I was raised in a place where the majority was Black – the doctors, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, with nothing, and I found myself on the margins. I was very shy. My teachers predicted I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the suspicion laws … all that gave me a dual identity between worlds."
Contrary to the caricature of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is calm and radiates serenity. His path has included its share of challenges, including openly discussed periods of depression and substance use.
He has also endured serious health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, now leaving him with partial sight. "I endured such a difficult period for two years, not working, anxious I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."
The Tate Britain Exhibition
This refusal to be defined narrowly has led him outside the world that built his career. He is now putting together a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a roster of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to capture the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and give platform to those who weren't given a spotlight at the time.
"Institutions didn't always promote the truly innovative creators because they did not have the right pedigree," he comments.
The magazine 72 itself uses a novel strategy, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "The question is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is part of a greater ecosystem."
An Unstoppable Drive
Currently, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected industry leaders. His journey, he believes, is a demonstration to the power of defying expectations.
What would the younger Edward react to the his current self? He chuckles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be impressed. Back then I was sceptical of institutions. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."
He pauses. "Nothing is assumed. We were displaced, we left our homeland. I came close to losing my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have doubted me my whole career. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve made up my mind to do something."
